Menswear has been one of my favorite trends year after year and I was thrilled to see it come it back with a bang onto runways and into stores this spring. I’ve always loved androgyny in the fashion world and while it never seems to go out of style, it finds intricate ways of reinventing itself within familiar form season after season. Menswear inspired fashion has lined every runway this season from Lanvin and YSL to Roland Mouret and Marios Shwab. There’s something so effortless about menswear, once considered rebellious and dangerous dressing, there’s an undeniable sexual connotation in dressing like a member of the opposite gender. It’s fun and effortless. It changes your entire attitude, like playing a role.
Androgyny is often referred to as gender-role transcendence and described as a state of mind (lifestyle, dress, etc) that is somewhere between male and female. Androgynous clothing usually referrs to menswear incorporated into women’s wear. The first peek at male-inspired trends was in the 1920’s when jazz-era flappers began cutting their hair ultra short and taping down their breasts to mimic the silhouete of a boy, hence the look becoming known as “le garconne”. This signified freedom from conventional gender roles, and matched the reckless lifestyles adapted by these women.
The fashion world largely began to see the menswear trend unraveling in 1940’s as a result of the need for practical dressing during wartime and led to women bravely opting for menswear inspired trousers and slacks, often in a heavy wool or tweed fabric. Marlene Dietrich became infamous for wearing slacks on the Hollywood screen and dressing herself head to toe in menswear on and off the movie set. The 40’s were also the launch of the original jumpsuit, called a utility siren suit, with a structured military inspired top and bottom.
Rock stars have adapted androgynous fashion sense as a part of their lifestyle decades ago. David Bowie has been a great influence on my personal style. His androgynous sense of fashion has no doubt influenced many of his fans and followers. His slender, long frame and the chic tailored clothing he’s worn since the 1970’s have been a vision to remember. He always looks flawless.
Agyness Deyn, fashion’s it girl and model extraordinaire is famous for her boyish fashion sense, but always manages to look feminine while dressing masculine. This is of course a large part of her charm.
Exquisite designers that favor menswear inspired looks include Alexander Wang, who is always effortlessly chic in perfectly structured unisex styles; Thakoon, whose simple, constructed pieces always look perfect and uncluttered and Comme des Garcons, who this season especially present unique pieces with a classic, bold attitude. Coco Chanel’s classic women’s suits have stayed timeless and have been a favorite menswear inspired piece in fashion history for nearly a century.
Alexander Wang, SS’10
Thakoon, SS’10
Top 5 Favorite Menswear Inspired Trends (that never go out of fashion)
1) The button down: This is an obvious choice. Button downs have been a staple in any smart woman’s wardrobe forever. They’re effortless, chic and go with nearly everything from a simple trouser to a tulle ballet skirt. This season’s button downs are more relaxed with a wider waist, often called “boyfriend shirts” due to the look being that you grabbed it right out of your boyfriend’s closet. Chambray or denim button downs have exploded in retail this spring, but the classic white or striped oxford remains a popular staple. You can get these anywhere. New or vintage, high or low end, your dad’s closet. Oversized menswear shirts look fantastic belted right at the waist and can be worn like this as a dress in summer months. Keep the bottom half skinny with well fitted pants, leggings or a mini. A loose fit all over isn’t very flattering.
2) The trouser pant: Unisex trousers are another classic staple that has been revived by labels worldwide. American Apparel has some great basic options with muted colors and higher waists. Beware the higher waist/tapered leg combo if you’re very curvy, it tends to highlight the hip to waist ratio. Neutral colors work best in this style; taupe, gray and brown are great choices. I’m not a fan of the boyfriend jean or denim short. I think this look is a little sloppy. The beauty in a tailored pant is that even if it’s not body hugging throughout, the waist and cuff of the pant fits in a way that’s still flattered to the body (male or female). Denim largely relies on overall fit rather than tailoring hence it’s trickier for it to be flattering if it’s a looser style.
3) The tailored vest: Tailored vests are a great accessory because they’re never out of style, are usually very affordable and transform any basic top or tank. Structured pinstripes add a touch of schoolboy style to any plain tee and pair of jeans and you can even throw one over a dress to bring it into casual mode. Invest in a cut that follows your body shape well, whether worn open or closed, if the fit or tailoring is off, it will show. Club Monaco is excellent for tailored menswear inspired women’s vests that fit beautifully.
4) The boyfriend blazer: The new generation of blazers, named for their looser, more relaxed masculine fit, are not restricting or prim, they’re casual and roomy and go well with nearly everything. If you’re small, like myself, and feel you’re drowning in this style, roll up the sleeves to the elbow; this will automatically balance out the more spacious bodice of the jacket. Every label is doing these now, but make sure the tailoring is well made. This is an investment piece.
5) The aviator: Ray Ban introduced their classic American wear aviator sunglasses, also known as pilot shades in the 1960’s and they’ve been revived every year in a myriad of colors and styles. This unisex piece toughens up any look with military appeal. Courage My Love in Toronto’s own Kensington market sells vintage pairs in great condition for less than half the retail price.